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Showing posts from April 11, 2010

Goodby Buenos Aires, Hello Peru

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Our last day in Buenos Aires and the last Spanish conversation for now... (must get back into when I return, I am just beginning to remember so much of it!) It rained for the first time this trip... and we escaped 2 attempts at having our pockets picked. One in busy Florida when I felt my backpack being touched and whipped round with a plastic bag in hand, knocking the person behind who feigned surprise and then disappeared. Now I know you shouldn't wear backpacks in busy shopping malls so I have been mostly wearing it on my front in this situation... thank goodness I was on my guard this time. The next time was on the Subte (the underground train) which we caught because of the rain. A group of business looking types in their 40s were standing near us and when my partner and I didn't get on the first crowded train neither did they. When we got on the second train they pushed and shoved - even though there were only half a dozen people getting on. My partner had his hand on hi…

San Telmo Markets and milonga Club Gricel

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The weather in Buenos Aires just keeps coming up warm and sunny and Sunday was no exception. After a late start we headed off to the San Telmo markets passing the Pink Palace - place of famous balcony where Evita addressed the crowd. (We 'forgot' it was open to the public only on Sundays and passed by... if you get a chance don't miss it!).
Markets are big business around the world these days and if like me you occasionally visit one of those in your home town you will be used to seeing many stalls selling the same stuff. Same here. Table after table selling the same tango souvenirs, scarves, useless knicknacks, hats and much more...
We found a great little restaurant - Brasserie Petanque - and stopped for a plate of Canard de Confit (what else in the middle of the day? it was delicious). Then after buy a picture we took a side street and before long found ourselves at the Museum of the Tunnels. Fascinating piece of Buenos Aires' history that the authorities seem to kn…

An Estancia and Los Consagradas en Buenos Aires

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Our private bus takes us out past the domestic airport, Aeroparque Jorge Newbery and the brick, wire and cardboards slums known as the villas miserias (literally miserable towns) and into the Argentinian countryside. It is a wide green and flat landscape, with businesses and houses beside the main road - the better neighbourhoods, as in any city, are away from the highway. An hour and a half outside Buenos Aires we arrive at our Estancia. Here some of us will ride horses, some will experience a ride in a buckboard - not for the first time is it a reminder of how much padding one needs and how uncomfortable was this form of travel when it was all one had. This visit is on our itinerary and we are all looking forward to a day in the country, lunch and learning something about life on the properties of the gauchos.
Lunch is an asado (bbq) - of course! The Argentinian barbecue is a big production - sausages, beef and chicken are spread across the racks above the coals and the meal is also…